2002 arctic cat service manual download

Do not grind the valves. If a valve is damaged, it must be replaced. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the combustion chambers or the sealing surfaces. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged threads. Repair damaged threads using a heli-coil insert. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable distortion must not exceed 0.

NOTE: If the distortion exceeds specification, replace the cylinder head. Measuring Valve Stem Runout. Acceptable valve face width must be within a range of 0. Measuring Valve Face Runout. Mount a dial indicator on a surface plate; then place the valve stem on a set of V blocks. Position the dial indicator contact point on the outside edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

Maximum runout is 0. Measuring Valve Face Width. If a valve guide needs replacing, before removing the existing guide, measure the distance from the top of the valve seat to the top of the valve guide B for a reference depth when installing the new guide. NOTE: Install the valve guide so the stepped part on the guide wall faces the head of the valve. To replace a valve guide, use a valve guide remover from the top side of the cylinder to gently pull the valve guide out of the cylinder.

After installing the guide, measure the inside diameter of the guide. The measurement must be within a range of 5. If the measurement does not fall within the specification or the valve does not move freely in the guide, use a standard valve guide reamer and handle to remove all burrs and tight areas that may remain in each valve guide.

Valve guide hole diameter after reaming intake and exhaust must be within a range of To install an oversized valve guide at room temperature, use a valve guide installer and gently drive a valve guide into the bore from the top side until the guide is set to the distance noted before removal.

Using a micrometer and small bore gauge, take diameter readings on the valve stems and inside the guides. Determine the stem clearance inside the guide. NOTE: Be sure to take readings at more than one place along the length of each stem and guide. Lubricate each valve stem with lightweight oil; then apply a small amount of valve lapping compound to the entire seating face of each valve.

Attach the suction cup of a valve lapping tool to the head of the valve. Rotate the valve until the valve and seat are evenly polished. Clean all compound residue from the valve and seat. Using a valve lapper, produce a contact pattern on each valve face by applying a uniform coat of valve lapping compound to the valve seat and by rotating and tapping the valve head. Acceptable width of valve seat contact width measurement A is within a range of 0.

A valve seat not producing a uniform contact with its valve or showing a seating contact width that is not within the specified range must be repaired by cutting. Insert the expandable pilot shaft into a valve guide; then install a 45 cutter onto the pilot shaft.

Grind the valve seat by turning the cutter turns using a T-handle. Remove the pilot shaft and cutter; then coat the valve seat with a blueing compound and insert the valve into the valve guide. Rotate the valve while tapping the valve head; then remove the valve and inspect the valve seat and valve face for proper width. The pattern produced on the seating surface of the valve and valve seat must be a continuous ring without any break and the width of the pattern must be within specifications.

Grind the valve seat width to 0. Inspect for dents or burning on the valve seat and, if necessary, rotate the 45 cutter another turn to smooth out the valve seat. After reconditioning the valve seat, the valve seat could be narrow. In this case, recondition the valve seat using the 45 cutter. After reconditioning, thoroughly remove any burrs which may be caused by grinding.

The valve seat surface should be smooth but not too glossy. Repeat the valve seat repair procedure on the remaining valve. NOTE: After reconditioning all valve seats, thoroughly clean the seat and its vicinity. Grind the seats only as necessary to ensure a continuous contact with the valve seating surface.

If the position of the valve face width is low, grind the valve seat using a 75 cutter to raise the position of the valve seat. If the position of the valve face width is high, grind the valve seat using a 15 cutter to lower the position of the valve seat.

When the valve springs are weak, the valve and valve seat fail to form a good seal, thus allowing gas to leak past the valve seat causing a loss of power. Whether or not a valve spring is weak can be determined by its free length. Minimum valve spring free length is NOTE: With the crankshaft at top dead center on the compression stroke, install the valve springs and spring retainers; then compress the valve springs and install the valve keepers. NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pins are out of tolerance, they must be replaced.

Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove any carbon buildup from the dome of the piston. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin, dome, and skirt areas. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing. Repair with grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and water or honing oil.

Place each piston ring in the wear portion of the cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring squarely in the cylinder. NOTE: When measuring a piston ring, it should be placed into the area of the cylinder where wear is least the area is about 3 mm 0. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within specifications. NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep to correct with the sandpaper, replace the piston.

Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of excessive blowby. Excessive blowby indicates worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder. Removing Piston Rings. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring out of the ring-groove.

Remove each ring by working it toward the dome of the piston while rotating it out of the groove. NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced with new ones, note the location of each ring for proper installation. When installing new rings, install as a complete set only. Using a thickness gauge, measure the side clearances of the 1st and 2nd rings.

If any of the clearances exceeds the limit, replace both piston and piston rings. Using a ring-groove cleaning tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the ring with its tapered side up. CAUTION Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in severe damage to the piston.

Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin bore. The diameter must be within specifications. Take two measurements to ensure accuracy. Piston pin bore must be within a range of Piston skirt to cylinder clearance must be within a range of 0. Installing Piston Rings. Measuring Piston Pin Diameter. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places using a cylinder bore gauge. The amount of wear is the difference between the largest and smallest readings. If the determined wear exceeds the limit indicated, bore to the next oversize by using a boring machine or replace the cylinder.

Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in the center. If measurement is less than minimum specifications, the piston pin must be replaced. Piston pin diameter must be within a range of Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a point 14 mm 0. Piston diameter must be within a range of Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged threads. Repair damaged threads using a helicoil insert. Place the cylinder head on a surface plate covered with grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication of high spots.

A high spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots before assembly by continuing to move the cylinder head in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. CAUTION Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to the sealing surface may result.

Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor between the head and the straightedge. Maximum distortion is 0. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing, warpage, and corrosion.

Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered with grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight motion. Correct any high spots before assembly by continuing to move the cylinder in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. Honing Cylinder. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the surface using the cylinder hone. If honing oil is not available, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil.

Thoroughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent. Check the gasket surface of the cylinder for distortion with a straightedge and thickness gauge taking a clearance reading at several places.

If the largest reading at any position of the straightedge exceeds the limit, replace the cylinder. Maximum cylinder distortion limit is 0. If any measurement exceeds the limit, hone the cylinder and install an oversized piston or replace the cylinder. NOTE: Oversized piston and rings are available. The oversized piston and rings are marked for identification purposes. Worn cam lobes result in reduced power output.

The limit of cam lobe wear is specified for both intake and exhaust lobes in terms of cam height which is to be measured with a micrometer. Replace the camshaft if found to be worn below specifications. Measurement must be within a range of If the difference between the connecting rod small end bore inside diameter and the piston pin outside diameter exceeds the limit, replace both connecting rod and piston pin.

The measurement must be within a range of 0. Support the crankshaft using a set of V blocks; use a dial indicator to read crankshaft runout. NOTE: The contact point of the dial indicator should be on the seal area of the crankshaft. Using a small bore gauge, measure the connecting rod small end bore inside diameter.

Check the connecting rod side clearance by using a thickness gauge. If the clearance exceeds the limit, replace the connecting rod or crankshaft. Clearance measurement must be within a range of 0.

Measurement must be within a range of 0. Measure the crank pin diameter. Inspect for cracks, scoring, pitting, imperfections, or warping. Inspect the sealing surfaces for trueness by placing each on the surface plate covered with grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move both sides in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any indication of high spots or warping. Correct highs spots by continuing to move each side in a figure eight motion. Warped components must be replaced.

Measure the connecting rod big end inside diameter. CAUTION Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in conjunction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to the sealing surfaces may result. Acceptable warpage must not exceed 0.

NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification, resurface the cylinder head using procedures identified in step 6 in the Crankcase sub-section of Cleaning and Inspecting Engine.

Using light pressure, move each cylinder head in a figure eight motion. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove carbon buildup from the exhaust ports. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing, and corrosion. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing. If honing oil is not available, use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly clean the cylinders after honing using detergent soap and hot water and dry with compressed air; then immediately apply oil to the cylinder bores.

If a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the cylinder will have to be replaced. NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep to correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary to replace the piston.

Place the head surface of each cylinder on the surface plate covered with grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in a figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any indication of high spots. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning solvent. NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves, make sure the four bearing dowel pins have been removed and accounted for. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting, scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.

Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped threads. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bearing movement is noted, repair by peening the bearing area in a pinking sawtooth pattern. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.

Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase halves for trueness by placing each crankcase half on the surface plate covered with grit wet-ordry sandpaper. Using light pressure, move each half in a figure eight motion.

Inspect the sealing surfaces for any indication of high spots. Correct any high spots by continuing to move the half in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained. NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an excessive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase will have to be replaced. If excessive aluminum is removed, too much pre-load will be exerted on the crankshaft bearings when assembled. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.

Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces; then grind the end of the old ring to a 45 angle and to a sharp edge.

Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon from the ring-grooves. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in partscleaning solvent. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing, damage, or discoloration.

Rotate the bearings. Bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or feel rough. If any abnormal condition is noted, replace the bearing. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication of high spots or warping. Correct high spots by continuing to move each side in a figure eight motion.

NOTE: On the twin carburetor model in order to inspect adapter plate trueness, it will be necessary to remove the studs. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing must be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin must also be replaced.

Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition exists, replace the gear. Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any wear is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end. Wrap a thick towel around the crankshaft; then secure the crankshaft vertically in a vise.

Heat the bearing either by placing the entire bearing in a pan of oil on a hot plate or by squirting oil into the bearing and using a propane torch to heat the inner race of the bearing until a slight smoke is noted coming from the bearing.

Drive a chisel or bearing splitter between the bearing race and crankshaft counterweight until the bearing is spread far enough to install the jaws of the crankshaft bearing remover. Account for any shim s. Note the position of the dowel pin hole. Place any shims removed during disassembly onto the crankshaft; then slide the bearing onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin hole in the outer race is properly positioned and will align with its hole and pin in the crankcase.

Slide the PTO-side bearing onto the PTO end making sure the dowel-pin hole will align with the hole and pin in the crankcase. Inspect the balancer shaft bearings by rotating them by hand.

The bearings must rotate freely without binding or feeling rough. If either condition exists, replace the bearing. Inspect the balancer gear very closely for any chipped teeth or signs of wear. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance.

Clearance must be less than 0. If clearance is not within specifications, replace the reed valve. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage with its clipped corner positioned to the lower right hand corner of the cage. Place the reed stopper assembly into position and secure with the three screws coated with red Loctite Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly in parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry.

Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper, measure the distance from the seat to the bottom outer tip edge of the stopper. Measurement must not exceed specifications. If measurement is not within specifications, either bend or replace the reed stopper. NOTE: Critical engine component specifications are on page 66 of this sub-section. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from front to back and side to side for a total of six readings.

The trueness out-of-roundness is the difference between the highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness out-of-roundness must not exceed specifications.

Measure each cylinder front to back about 2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at a point 1 cm 0. Subtract this measurement from the measurement in step 1.

The difference clearance must be within specifications. Acceptable piston pin measurement must be within specifications. If any measurement varies by more than 0. Insert a snap gauge into each piston-pin bore; then remove the gauge and measure it with a micrometer. The diameter measurement must be within specifications. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above the exhaust port of its respective cylinder.

Use the piston to position each ring squarely in each cylinder. Insert a snap gauge into each connecting-rod small end bore; then remove the gauge and measure it with a micrometer. Position the indicator contact point against the crankshaft at point E center. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft runout total indicator reading. If runout exceeds specifications at any of the checkpoints, the crankshaft must be either straightened or replaced.

Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface plate. Position the indicator contact point against the crankshaft distance F PTO-end from the crankshaft end. Position the indicator contact point against the crankshaft distance D MAG-end from the crankshaft end.

Assembling Engine Table of Contents cc Model Note the direction of the arrow on the connecting rod and the marks on the connecting rod and end cap made during disassembly. NOTE: When the use of a lubrication is indicated, use a lightweight engine oil. Coat the cylinder wall, connecting rod bearing surface, and the crankshaft with lightweight oil; then compress the piston rings and install the piston and connecting rod assembly taking care not to damage the crankshaft with the connecting rod studs.

NOTE: When installing the piston, rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Install the connecting rod end cap with the splasher plate, lock tab, and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 1.

Secure the crankcase side cover to the crankcase with the cap screws. Tighten to 0. Install the dowel pins and a new gasket; then secure the head to the cylinder with the cap screws. Tighten to 2. Loosely secure the rocker arms to the cylinder head with the pivots and lock nuts; then place the piston to the top of the compression stroke, set the valve clearance to the recommended setting with a feeler gauge, and while holding the adjustment nut, tighten the rocker arm lock nuts securely.

Verify valve clearance. Connect the ignition coil wire. NOTE: The spark plug should be removed and cleaned or replaced. Adjust gap to specification and tighten the plug to 2.

Connect the high tension lead to the spark plug and secure with the two wire forms. The speed sensor, installed on the rear crankcase cover, sends a vehicle speed signal both to the combination meter and the Electronic Control Unit.

The Electronic Control Unit has a self-diagnostic function though it does not have the capability to display the results which checks the system. If any error is found as the result of self-diagnosis, it shuts off the electric current for operation, bringing ESP to a stop. If the error is temporary, turn OFF the ignition switch to erase the self-diagnostic results. Then, re-start the engine to reactivate the system.

This engine was designed and manufactured to reduce the overall height of the engine body and to reduce the size of the entire lubrication system. In a normal dry sump mechanism, the oil tank is separated from the engine and laid out as an independent unit. See below for a list of items that most of our manuals cover. Some manuals actually cover more items that are not even listed!

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